When buying wood pigeon, look for meat that is deep-coloured and relatively clear of damage from shot. Young birds are the best for roasting to ensure tender meat, which is dark, very rich and gamey.

A young pigeon will have a supple breastbone and plump, pink flesh - these are ideal for roasting. Older birds, better for the stew pot, will have darker meat and more wrinkled skin. Pigeon ...